I can’t get back the historical approach of the question, even though every transition signed with nervous and sensually painful being; modern fashion depression mood is unique example of global multicultural mix. Suppose, we can start such excursion with Victor&Rolf, whose collection was full of lifeless Greco-roman muses, right from the Aids dark kingdom’s party. Did they come here again to remind us about the final antique days of glory or to aware of being too spoiled by euphonious diffusion of freedom? Whatsoever, Victor&Rolf’s Melpomenes are real tragic creatures wearing their stone colored classical draped long-sleeved garment mixed with 3D shapes and high belt. Medieval spirit inspired designers for fall season really seriously. Haider Ackermann’s women were seen as helpless, beautiful, and pure – unrealistic in its holy nuns grey dresses. You can easily imagine them ascetic alchemist or hiding warrior like Jean D’Ark. Haider’s ghost-like-girls are trying to brake up with traditions, blind uses and religious slaving with its prohibitions and rules. More active reactionary were walking in Hussein Chalayan leather corsets with cut-out tailoring or in long skirted dresses. Wet and cold stoned colours of his outfits mixed with possessed make up definitely made for those who won’t be missing absolute beliefs and indisputable authorities. As well as Alexander Wang seductive armourers. Bit androgynous in their tight leather trousers, self-confident and sexual creatures, ready for the time traveling and uncompromised steps, just to feel the complexity of their emotions and adrenalin taste.
Bored with ridiculousness of existed social and political rules, Ann Demeulemeester’s girls are silent escapists, choosing wood as the best place for their own ideal world. Passive thinkers and watchers in leather polished corsets, masculine jackets, riding boots and long gloves, they don’t want to be fooled by civilization with its unseen choice dictations and illusions. Where else can you hide your whiteness (purity), like in the forest darkness? Strict duality of world, where you can hardly understand what marks as bad, and what as good was clearly seen at Rick Owens show. His heroines are scary, dramatic, lost and synthesizing every moment. Faceless and ageless, stuck in own emotions, forceful dynamism and therefore depressed with the future, as something they are going to face soon without being really ready. Wearing dozens of neutral garments, hoping it is possible to be safe in layering, hunter-boots and ascetic hairpieces.
Scientific domination historical page can be depict with Bruno Pieters collection, even so all the outfits are pretty futuristic and modern, they have so clear materialistic shapes, that make you feel like studying René Descartes or Denis Diderot heritage. Rational squares, triangles, lines and sharp panels features like a staff for survay, no matter what is the object – fashion, universe or smth else. Its just presice mathematical game of the future, helping to progrimise own mind and even soul.
Strong and confident ladies, right from Victorian era were walking at Max Azria show. Although this period was marked with new technical changes and therefore firstly was very optimistic, it had plenty of painful, anxious thoughts: disharmony, desperate and death. Machines made people more free and leisure, strong and weak – in fact, they became soulless substitutes, led us to decadence. All the drama of Azria’s clothes this autumn is in its color and skirts: bold black is not classical one for the time of mental fall, but today it seems like very calm, wise and balancing those long gorgeous satin\silky\laced skirts. His girl might be a knight, full of pessimism, intended to turn back the real treasures, if they did ever existed, of course.
